Sword cleaning in camp. Photo by Nicolas Dory

Sword Care

by Gael Stirler

The worst thing you can do to a sword is store it in the scabbard. Since humidity can't escape, moisture is able to attack the blade and cause pitting, stains, and rust. Swords and knives should be displayed bare on sword racks so that air can freely circulate around them. It also allows you to observe whether any adverse changes are occuring. A blade forgotten in a scabbard can be destroyed by rust before you take it out again. Scabbards should only be used when you are carrying the sword on your person.

Take a soft cloth and wipe down the blade whenever it is touched to remove skin oils that could etch fingerprints into the surface permanently. More thorough cleaning should be done once a week in humid climates (or if you're using evaporative cooling), or once a month in dry climates. This will also remove dust that can cause pitting if left on a blade and it gives you a chance to see if any environmental factors are affecting the finish. Drape a piece of leather or fur over your lap or work table and clean off the old oil from the last cleaning with a soft cloth and mineral spirits or WD-40®. Polish the blade with Simichrome® or other metal polish and protect with a light coat of mineral oil. For longer storage between cleanings protect the finish with a paste wax like Renaissance Wax®, Turtle Wax®, or a neutral shoe polish. For extended storage or shipping, you can coat the blade in Cosmoline® or Vaseline® and wrap in plastic. For short trips or shipping by air keep your blades in a gun case with silicon gel packs to absorb moisture. If you need to clean old Cosmoline off a sword, automotive brake cleaner works great. Sudden changes in temperature can accelerate rusting, so never store your blades in a car and always examine and clean your blades when they are exposed to shifts in the weather.

Rust must be scrubbed off with Simichrome or other metal cleaner then neutralized with a weak acid (like vinegar or lemon juice). Rinse with water, dry, polish, and then a apply a light coat of mineral oil. Stains from dyes or markers can be cleaned with salt-free butter. Some manufacturers print their logo or the country of origin on the blades with ink that can be erased with a pencil eraser. Light pitting can be rubbed out with fine sandpaper and emery cloths working with the grain of the metal, but this can take a lot of time and effort. You can also buff your blades using a polishing wheel and black jeweler's rouge. If you want a bright shine, finish buffing with red jeweler's rogue.

More blades are damaged by abuse than neglect. Hacking into trees can ruin the edge and cause deep scratches. If it sticks in the wood you can further damage or even break the blade by twisting it as you try to free it. But if you take good care of your blades, handle them carefully, honor their history, and prize the skill that went into their making, they will be as beautiful and effective 50 years from now as they are today!

Permissions

If you want to add this article to your list of favorites or email it to a friend, please use this permanent URL, http://www.renstore.com/Article06a09.asp. Permission is granted by the author to quote from this page or use it in handouts as long as you include a link back to Renstore.com. All photos ©2009 Gael Stirler.

Go to This Week's Sale Offer